An American Girl Meets the World

Read along here as I recount my adventures from around the globe... For photos, visit An American Girl Sees the World

Monday, July 31, 2006

Day 11 - Singapore Slinging

Singapore is now on my list of places I could live. I absolutely felt alive in the city, even though I was only there for nine hours.

The morning started off innocently enough. With limited time I decided to head into the city by myself, without the chaos of group decisions, and headed straight for the Merlion. The Merlion is Singapore’s most famous attraction. The regal lion head sits atop the body of a fish at the mouth of the Singapore River, guarding the city with its fountain of water. It really was rather magnificent sight.

From there I took a walk to and trough downtown Singapore, stopped at St. Andrews Cathedral, had a barefoot walk in the park, went into the basement of a rundown mall to buy a cheap guitar (I am learning how to play, can you believe it?), then to the celebrated Raffles Hotel for high tea. Actually, a tour group from the boat was there so I ended up in the garden instead of the salon, which was fine with me. The Raffles Hotel caters to the rich and famous, and as I was surrounded by Dior, Tiffany, and Gucci, I enjoyed people watching and window shopping. After my afternoon tea, I went to the Sony Plaza for some internet action, yay high speed internet!

At a tourist information center I was offered a coupon for free “Chili Crab,” apparently the national dish of Singapore, so I went to a beautiful restaurant on river. The lovely, large glass windows framed the Merlion, and looked out onto the sea as the sunset. All the tables were adorned with stunning Thai silk table cloths, and several dishes with assorted goodies such as pineapple in a spicy peanut sauce, honeyed fish scales, lemon-lime water to was your hands, and couple others I can’t remember.

Walking in there I was worried I wouldn’t be able to afford anything but the free crab. Everything was so elegant, and the restaurant hostess seemed very bothered by both my guitar case and my solitary status. Since I figured the Chili Crab would be a small sample, I ordered the cheapest item on the menu and a beverage. It wasn’t until they took me to the aquarium to select my crab that I realized what I was in for.

As it turns it out, the coupon was for an ENTIRE crab. This being the case I selected the largest crab in the tank, I think he was pounds or so, and they cooked him up. When I looked at the actual price, he should have been $33USD. CRAZY! I have always been bothered by the price of crab. I mean, really, what is the restaurant doing? YOU pick the crab, they put in a pot, put it on a plate with some butter and lemon, and YOU do all the work. YOU pull it apart limb by limb, in the most cannibalistic and violent way possible, cracking the body apart. Then, crab is always served at really nice, fancy restaurants, as though there is a graceful way to eat crab. I am sorry, but NOBODY can eat crab without making a mess. Crab should really be served at places with peanut shells on the ground, or where shoes and shirts are optional.



I remember the first time I ever had real crab. I was out with my Uncle J when I was about 18, and he taught me how to use the tools, and select a good one. Ever since then I have loved crab. The crab at this restaurant was amazing. It was cooked in this heavy chili sauce spiked with cilantro and lime. It was possibly the messiest thing I have ever eaten though. Every time I tried to crack open a claw, chili sauce would splatter across the table in this gory, explosive way.


My hands were absolutely covered in sauce, and though there was a washing bowl that they changed regularly, I just couldn’t stay clean. As I was there alone, I was terribly embarrassed, certain that I was doing something wrong. As the wait staff came by to periodically remove the carnage and change washing bowls, I would apologize profusely. I feel certain that I ruined all the table linens, but they said I was fine and everyone did it. I almost wanted to pay for the crab to relieve my guilt, but then again…free crab…


When I had finally made my way through the mountain of crab, and the family size serving of chowmein-esq noodles I had ordered, I went for a walk along the pier. I spent some more time admiring the Merlion, and just enjoyed a brilliant Monday evening strolling down the twinkle-lit river walk. Couples went past hand in hand, small children ran ahead of timid parents, boats glided along carrying tourists, traffic, and other goods, and I just really took pleasure in a perfect evening. Crab in my belly, a city thriving at night, stars in the sky, and the bustle of people. It was terribly dreamy. I almost didn’t want to return to the boat…

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