Day 32 - Eritrea
If I had to describe Eritrea in one word, I think I would say "texture." You can really feel a sense of grit and reality in Eritrea. It was terribly hot there, and so humid I would call it foggy. The people definitely had a sense of loss about them, still recovering from their recent war of independence from Ethiopia. It was by far the cheapest port for me so far, but mostly because there is nothing to buy in this country. Indeed, there is nothing even to do except observe.
Eritrea was the reality check of our voyage. I hadn't even heard of it before departure, and I still lack information about the place. It is the newest country in Africa, a scant 10 years old, and it still reeks of war and the chaos that goes along with building a nation. One of the interesting tings about Eritrea is that it is a beacon for developing nations for woman's equality. Coming from a Western, modern nation, I know many people who believe women are free in the US. But free and equal are different things. Yes I can vote, work, have a child or not, but those are just rights. It speaks nothing of the responsibility one has to a nation. In Eritrea everyone, men and women alike must join the military for 18 months after high school. And if war breaks out, women and men are seen equally in the eyes of battle. Women in Eritrea are allowed to vote, but are also expected to protect their nation. There are no divisions in the lines of gender.
Anyway, despite a complete lack of tourism, I managed to find some interesting things to do. Mostly, my paid tour on a camel was about as foreign a thing to do as I can think of, and yet, it really weighed heavily on me the difference in treatment I received.
I know that I look about as American as anyone can possibly look. I am further aware that compared to the 900 or so Japanese people who get off the boat I appear more approachable, wealthy, and dare I say, more like a dollar bill. At any rate, for this camel tour there were supposed to be one guide and one camel per person. Lucky me, I got three guides. One young boy not more than 12 leading my camel into the desert and two guys who literally would not let go of my ankles the entire trip while asking me to buy everything down to the clothes on their back.
Something that is becomming more and more evident to me is the negative effects of America/Western tourism. Why was I singled out? Why was it appropriate for my guides to ask me to give them pencils, water, my sweat rag, my camera, scarf, shoes, or anything else? Why, next to a bombed out building was there a pristine Coca Cola sign? Why does drinkable water cost more than soda? Why do I stand out so much as being willing to buy stuff and give gifts? The only answer I can come up with is that the people who came there before me set the example.
This kind of thing happened the entire time I was in Eritrea, and in many ways I am glad for the experience. It was eye-opening, and informational. I think we as Americans, or travellers need to be more responsible in our toursim. Sure, handing out sweets to local kids feels good, and puts a temporary smile on a face, but a problem arises when the only English words a child knows are, "Sweets," and, "Pencil." We are creating nations of beggars, and while intially we have good in our hearts, I don't know that we are really helping these people.
I know that I am wording this poorly, and expressing myself incorrectly, but Eritrea was educational to say the least.
Eritrea was the reality check of our voyage. I hadn't even heard of it before departure, and I still lack information about the place. It is the newest country in Africa, a scant 10 years old, and it still reeks of war and the chaos that goes along with building a nation. One of the interesting tings about Eritrea is that it is a beacon for developing nations for woman's equality. Coming from a Western, modern nation, I know many people who believe women are free in the US. But free and equal are different things. Yes I can vote, work, have a child or not, but those are just rights. It speaks nothing of the responsibility one has to a nation. In Eritrea everyone, men and women alike must join the military for 18 months after high school. And if war breaks out, women and men are seen equally in the eyes of battle. Women in Eritrea are allowed to vote, but are also expected to protect their nation. There are no divisions in the lines of gender.
Anyway, despite a complete lack of tourism, I managed to find some interesting things to do. Mostly, my paid tour on a camel was about as foreign a thing to do as I can think of, and yet, it really weighed heavily on me the difference in treatment I received.
I know that I look about as American as anyone can possibly look. I am further aware that compared to the 900 or so Japanese people who get off the boat I appear more approachable, wealthy, and dare I say, more like a dollar bill. At any rate, for this camel tour there were supposed to be one guide and one camel per person. Lucky me, I got three guides. One young boy not more than 12 leading my camel into the desert and two guys who literally would not let go of my ankles the entire trip while asking me to buy everything down to the clothes on their back.
Something that is becomming more and more evident to me is the negative effects of America/Western tourism. Why was I singled out? Why was it appropriate for my guides to ask me to give them pencils, water, my sweat rag, my camera, scarf, shoes, or anything else? Why, next to a bombed out building was there a pristine Coca Cola sign? Why does drinkable water cost more than soda? Why do I stand out so much as being willing to buy stuff and give gifts? The only answer I can come up with is that the people who came there before me set the example.
This kind of thing happened the entire time I was in Eritrea, and in many ways I am glad for the experience. It was eye-opening, and informational. I think we as Americans, or travellers need to be more responsible in our toursim. Sure, handing out sweets to local kids feels good, and puts a temporary smile on a face, but a problem arises when the only English words a child knows are, "Sweets," and, "Pencil." We are creating nations of beggars, and while intially we have good in our hearts, I don't know that we are really helping these people.
I know that I am wording this poorly, and expressing myself incorrectly, but Eritrea was educational to say the least.
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