An American Girl in Japan

What's it like to be an American Girl in Japan? I'll tell you. I will tell you as much as I am able to, and though I will try to keep persons mentioned annonymous, I want to record my life in Japan. For all to read and for me to remember.

Thursday, April 20, 2006

Pod People

Whilst in Tokyo last week I was on a super tight budget, and even tighter schedule. I took the dreaded nice bus in on Friday to arrive just on time for a six hour test, met with some friends, stayed the night, had an eight hour interview on Sunday, had dinner, then took the night bus home on Sunday night. The trip, needless to say, left me exhausted, a little grumpy, and very anxious about the test and interview (as anyone that saw me the following week can attest to).

I had a grand total of 100 dollars for the entire time I was in Tokyo. This small amount of funds needed to cover all of my subway costs, food and lodgings. As Tokyo is the most expensive city in the world, this was no easy task. This meant sacrificing comfort for frugality. Thus I spent the night in a capsule hotel.




For starters, it was actually quite difficult to find a capsule hotel that would play host to women. Most are geared towards business men. At first I found this sexist, but in hindsight, it makes some sense.

As you are in a pod, there isn't a bathroom in the pod. The 8th floor was the mens' restroom, and the and 10th floors was the ladys'. Since women rarely ever fill up their 9th floor rooms, the cost of the extra, separate bathroom is quite extreme. There were also two elevators in the building, independently controlled, one for men and one for women. This seemed strange at first, but as I went upstairs in my towel to the shower room, the fog cleared.

Staying in the pods also had its own idiosyncracies. As you are literally sleeping in a pod, any excess baggage is a risk. There aren't really even locks on the pods, just a latch that keeps the shade down. Each person also has a key to a locker, but other than one or two hung kacjets and maybe a purse (definitely not a backpack), there really isn't a lot of security.

Also, because only a shade separates you from the hall that contains other pod people, any noise that is made is very audible. In fact, it's akin to sharing a dorm room where you have the bottom bunk. When I was in college and had the bottom bunk I put a curtain around the bed for when I needed privacy or darkness. While the curtain blocked out light, it did nothing for the sounds my roommates made, and I only had two roommates. My pod was on a row of around 16 others. Not all were full, but earplugs were necessary.

Inside the pod itself, given its size restraints, was actually surprisingly well designed. The casule consisted of one bed, a suspended television, a radio and alarm clock in the wall, several light settings, and power outlets. If you were only in town for a night with very little baggage the capsule was ideal. But again, if you carried even so much as a backpack, you would be sleeping with it.


All in all I enjoyed my pod. It was definitely a cultural experience that I am glad to have, and I was able to stay in Tokyo for less than 40 bucks!

Tuesday, April 11, 2006

The 2 Embassies

A couple of months ago, February I think, I was cruising around Tokyo with my friend Red. It is not often that we are exposed to the Metropolis that is Tokyo, and we always try to get as much done as possible while there including, but not limited to: eating as much Mexican, American, and in general foreign food as we can, visiting international banks (like Citibank), enjoying the subway, eating sushi on the docks where the fish is brought in, going to clubs and ordering interesting drinks, flocking to the onsen, ordering room service, and in general, feeling human again.

During this particular trip Red needed to stop at the US Embassy to order more pages in her passport. I was actually a little excited to join her on the adventure as visiting the embassy was on my "Things I Should Do While In Japan" list. At first I was embarrassed that I was wearing jeans, but by the end of the trip, jeans were the least of my problem.

The US Embassy occupies on city block in the Embassy district of Tokyo. It is fairly easy to access from two subway lines, and is indeed very close to one of my most missed restaurants, Subway (eat fresh!). As it does occupy the entire block, there is a sidewalk that runs along the outer boundaries (and, indeed, along a 10 foot brick wall). Once upon a time you could walk along this sidewalk, but since September 11th (or at least I imagine so, could be any time really) you are no long able to walk on the sidewalk that borders the US Embassy. I don't mean to be anti-patriotic or anything, but it seems a but...Well...INSANE!

The, only place you can access the entrance from is actually the most incovenient corner. I will never be able to describe it correctly, but basically the entrance is sort of on a corner, but not a 2-street intersection but a 2.5-street intersection. Anyway, it makes it so that you have to cross at least 2 streets, regardless of oncoming direction, to get to the entrance, and with the number of Japanese police and security, these are not streets you can J-walk...Not that I ever do anything like that anyway...ah hem...

Then you get to the gate. Here you stand in line. While in line you must place any water bottler or other container (coke can, coffee cup, etc) into an unmonitored ice-chest.

Then you go through a door into a tiny building. Here you must check anything electronic...Cameras, phones, palm pilots, watches, beepers, computers, etc. You will go through one metal detector where they remove anything electronic from your bags, then a second one just for you. You are swiped with one of those wands, and then you are allowed to walk up the hill to the embassy. I understand about not wanting me to bring in a camera...At least a bit...But no phone? Really? NO PHONE? I felt so naked...

There were around 6-10 Japanese dudes in this VERY small building doing all the wand waving and metal detecting, and NOT ONE of them spoke ANY English. Rather, they would point at signs or pictures if you had a question. Signs that said, "The following items are prohibited," with pictures or, "The Embassy accepts visitors from," with the times listed.

Once I got into the building I realized how overdressed I was. It was your worst DMV nightmare, complete with long lines, bitter employees, lackluster office equipment, grimey high-school-esq bathrooms, and forms everywhere. Originally I would have wanted to explore the Embassy, but we were quarantined to a small area that I can't imagine having wanted to stay in longer than a couple of minutes. It truly felt like I was trapped inside a DMV with no phone to occupy me, or MP3 player to distract me. Red quickly filed her forms and we were out of there quick as a flash.

Then, however, I had a very different experience. Last weekend I was in Tokyo both for an interview and for the US Foreign Officer's Written Exam. This meant a second visit to the Embassy. The test started at 8, and while the Embassy opened at 8, this did not take into account the half hour security procedures endured (as listed above). However, instead of hiking up the hill and ducking into the standard office, we were led up to another entrance, and this room was quite the opposite. The room was carpeted in a lush navy blue, and the walls and furniture were all a heavy oak. Crisp American flags stood proudly in places throughout the building. The employees were friendly and surprisingly cheerful despite the early hour on a Saturday. Chairs were comfortable and well cared for, bathrooms were clean and nice to be in. There were coat racks and refreshment tables, and in general the embassy was all that I thought it should be.

While I spend most of the 6 hours I was there taking a test, I felt very proud of my country and embassy. I only wish it were the part that any one could come and visit. Upon arriving in Tokyo nearly 2 years ago, every other country invited all of the new JETs from their country to visit the embassy. Some embassies hosted parties, cocktail hours, dinners, or chats with the ambassador, but not America. The Americans were handed 6 books on American history, but never welcomed. Granted their were more Americans that any other country, but still, I always felt a bit left out, like our country didn't care that we were here.

I wish that America wasn't so afraid. I wish that I could walk on the sidewalk around the embassy. I wish that I could not only visit the part that reminds me of the White House, but show it to people from other countries. I wish that privacy outweighed security. I wish that American Foreign Officers showed more pride in their work. I wish that we could do these things to change other nation's opinion of us...

Thursday, April 06, 2006

The List

As the end of my time in Japan looms ever closer, I am beginning to take note of all the things I will miss once I leave this place.

Today, for example, is actually beginning to look a little like spring, and the cherry blossoms on the trees are appearing like little puffs of pink-tinted popcorn.

So here is the list, for now, of things I will miss in Japan, in no particular order.

  • Aloe Juice
  • Hanami - Cherry blossoms
  • My students
  • Oobanyaki - Hockey puck shapped pancake-like things with filling
  • Okonomiyaki - Pizza-like pancake fried with various ingredients
  • Friendly Japanese people
  • Hyakuen stores - Like the .99 cent store, but eons better
  • BBQs and picnics on the riverbanks
  • Matsuris - Japanese festivals
  • Izakayas - Japanese-style dining
  • Momiji - Autumn foliage
  • My apartment
  • Clover-chan - My cat
  • 47 days of vacation and holidays
  • My friends
  • Yahoo BB
  • Crepe stands
  • Riding my bike home on the river path
  • Soccer practice every Sunday
  • Learning about Japanese culture
  • Turtoring the doctors
  • The celebrity status of being a gaijin
  • Cute Japanese stuff
  • Cute Japanese girls
  • The innocence of Japanese junior high school students
  • Kotatsus - Heated tables
  • Onsens - Public baths
  • Straight perms
  • The challenge of doing simple things
  • English Club
  • Care packages
  • Living with few possesions
  • Pencil Cases
  • Ketais - Cell phone
  • Kimonos
  • Kit Kats of every flavor
  • Melon Soda
  • Aloe Yogurt
  • Strange salty buttery sweet crackers
  • Omiyage - Presents after vacations
  • Sincere appreciation and investment in the arts
  • And sooo much more...